:root{--paper:#f5f7f3;--white:#fff;--ink:#192b2a;--green:#164e45;--muted:#5e706d;--line:#d9e1da;--wash:#e8eee6;--gold:#eacf93;--gutter:clamp(20px,4vw,68px)}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:25px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:17px/1.65 'Source Sans 3',Arial,sans-serif}button,input,select{font:inherit}button,a,input,select{touch-action:manipulation}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:4px}h1,h2,h3{font-family:Montserrat,Arial,sans-serif;font-weight:500;line-height:1.15;letter-spacing:-.045em}h1{font-size:clamp(40px,5vw,72px)}h2{font-size:clamp(28px,3vw,44px)}h3{font-size:23px}p{margin:0 0 20px}img{max-width:100%}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,select:focus-visible,[tabindex]:focus-visible{outline:3px solid #af7939;outline-offset:4px}.sr-only,.skip{position:absolute;width:1px;height:1px;overflow:hidden;clip-path:inset(50%)}.skip:focus{position:fixed;z-index:3000;top:10px;left:10px;width:auto;height:auto;clip-path:none;background:white;padding:12px}[hidden]{display:none!important}
.site-nav{padding:23px var(--gutter);display:flex;align-items:center;gap:36px;background:var(--paper);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);position:relative;z-index:1200}.brand{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:center;text-decoration:none;white-space:nowrap;font:600 21px/1.2 Montserrat,Arial,sans-serif;letter-spacing:-.7px;color:var(--green)}.brand svg{width:38px;height:38px;stroke:currentColor;fill:none;stroke-width:2}.brand small{display:block;font:12px/1.5 'Source Sans 3',Arial,sans-serif;color:var(--muted);letter-spacing:0;margin-top:5px}.site-nav>nav{display:flex;gap:25px;margin-left:auto}.site-nav nav a,.search-link{font-size:14px;text-decoration:none}.site-nav nav a:hover,.site-nav nav a[aria-current=page]{color:var(--green);text-decoration:underline}.search-link{display:flex;gap:12px;align-items:center}.search-link span{font-size:27px;line-height:1}.mobile-toggle{display:none}.site-nav #mobile-nav{position:absolute;top:100%;left:0;right:0;background:var(--paper);margin:0;padding:25px var(--gutter);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.site-nav #mobile-nav:not([hidden]){display:grid;gap:18px}
.page-intro{padding:58px var(--gutter) 34px;max-width:1120px}.page-intro h1{margin:0 0 23px}.page-intro>p:last-child{max-width:720px;color:var(--muted);font-size:19px}.eyebrow{font-size:13px;color:var(--green);margin-bottom:20px}.section{padding:65px var(--gutter)}.section-heading{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:flex-end;gap:40px;margin-bottom:33px}.section-heading h2{margin:0 0 16px}.section-heading p{margin:0;max-width:650px;color:var(--muted)}.text-link{color:var(--green);font-size:14px;white-space:nowrap}.card-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,minmax(0,1fr));gap:42px 26px}.place-card a{text-decoration:none;display:block}.card-photo{position:relative;aspect-ratio:4/3;overflow:hidden;border-radius:4px;background:var(--wash)}.card-photo img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block;transition:transform .35s}.card-photo>span{position:absolute;right:14px;bottom:14px;width:34px;height:34px;border-radius:50%;display:grid;place-items:center;background:var(--paper);color:var(--green)}.place-card:hover .card-photo img{transform:scale(1.035)}.place-card .place-region{font-size:12px;color:var(--green);margin:17px 0 9px}.place-card h3{font-size:25px;margin:0 0 12px}.place-card p:last-child{font-size:16px;color:var(--muted);line-height:1.55;margin:0;max-width:48ch}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:22px;padding:13px 23px;background:var(--green);color:white;border:1px solid var(--green);border-radius:4px;text-decoration:none;font-size:14px}.button:hover{background:#0c362f}.button.light{background:var(--paper);border-color:var(--paper);color:var(--green)}.landscape-story{margin:30px var(--gutter);position:relative;min-height:560px;display:flex;align-items:flex-end;isolation:isolate;overflow:hidden;border-radius:5px;color:white}.landscape-story>img{position:absolute;inset:0;z-index:-2;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.landscape-story:after{position:absolute;content:'';inset:0;z-index:-1;background:linear-gradient(90deg,rgba(7,29,25,.73),rgba(7,29,25,.05))}.landscape-story>div{padding:50px;width:min(600px,100%)}.landscape-story h2{font-size:clamp(36px,4vw,58px);margin:0 0 20px}.landscape-story .eyebrow{color:var(--gold)}.landscape-story p{max-width:450px}
.atlas-section{margin:12px var(--gutter) 40px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:6px;background:#fff;overflow:hidden}.atlas-top{padding:25px 28px;display:flex;gap:25px;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center}.atlas-top h2{font-size:24px;margin:0 0 7px}.atlas-top p{margin:0;color:var(--muted);font-size:14px}.map-actions{display:flex;gap:8px;flex-shrink:0}.map-actions button{font-size:12px;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;padding:8px 12px;cursor:pointer}.map-actions button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--green);color:white}.atlas-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 300px;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.atlas-canvas{height:520px;min-width:0;z-index:0;background:#e7efeb}.atlas-detail{padding:25px;background:#fff;max-height:520px;overflow:auto;overscroll-behavior:contain}.atlas-detail label{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);display:block}.atlas-detail select{display:block;width:100%;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;background:var(--paper);padding:10px;margin:8px 0 20px;color:var(--ink);font-size:15px}.map-preview-photo{width:100%;height:135px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:3px;display:block;margin-bottom:15px}.atlas-detail h3{margin:0 0 12px;font-size:25px}.atlas-detail p{font-size:14px;line-height:1.55;color:var(--muted)}.atlas-detail .button{padding:10px 14px;width:100%;justify-content:space-between}.map-related{display:grid;gap:9px;margin:15px 0}.map-related a{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px;text-decoration:none;font-size:13px;padding:8px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.map-related img{width:38px;height:38px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:50%}.map-footnote{padding:12px 24px;background:var(--paper);border-top:1px solid var(--line);font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:25px}.map-footnote a{white-space:nowrap}.leaflet-container{font-family:'Source Sans 3',Arial,sans-serif}.leaflet-control-attribution{font-size:9px!important;max-width:80%}.city-pin{background:none;border:0}.city-pin .pin-photo{display:block;width:44px;height:44px;border:3px solid white;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 2px 8px #163f3a33;overflow:hidden;background:var(--green)}.city-pin img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.pin-label{position:absolute;left:50%;top:46px;transform:translateX(-50%);background:#fffffff0;border-radius:3px;padding:1px 5px;font-size:11px;color:var(--ink);white-space:nowrap;box-shadow:0 1px 3px #0001}.city-pin.selected .pin-photo{border-color:var(--gold);box-shadow:0 0 0 3px var(--green)}.city-pin:hover{z-index:1000!important}.city-cluster{background:var(--green);border:3px solid white;border-radius:50%;color:white;display:grid;place-items:center;box-shadow:0 2px 8px #163f3a44}.city-cluster span{font-size:15px;font-weight:600}.stop-pin{border:3px solid white;background:var(--green);color:white;border-radius:50%;box-shadow:0 1px 6px #0003;text-align:center;font:600 12px/25px Montserrat,Arial,sans-serif}.stop-pin.selected{background:#b27530}.leaflet-tooltip{border:0;box-shadow:0 2px 10px #0002;padding:7px 10px}.map-fallback{padding:35px}.map-fallback a{display:block;margin:15px 0}
.filter-bar{border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:17px 0;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px}.filter-buttons{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px}.filter-buttons button{padding:8px 13px;font-size:13px;border:1px solid transparent;background:transparent;border-radius:4px;color:var(--muted);cursor:pointer}.filter-buttons button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--green);color:white}.directory-search input{border:0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);background:none;padding:9px 0;font-size:14px;width:190px}.directory [data-results-count]{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin:23px 0 30px}.empty-state{padding:50px 0}.directory{padding-top:0}
.city-opening{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.1fr 1fr;gap:7vw;padding:50px var(--gutter) 60px;align-items:center}.city-opening h1{margin:10px 0 25px}.city-opening .eyebrow{margin-top:25px;margin-bottom:7px}.opening-copy{font-size:18px;max-width:65ch}.city-angle{font-size:15px;border-left:3px solid var(--green);padding-left:17px;color:var(--muted)}.city-opening figure{margin:0}.city-opening figure img{display:block;width:100%;height:510px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:5px}.city-opening figcaption,.wide-photo figcaption{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:12px}.notes-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:35px}.note h3{font-size:21px;margin:0 0 13px}.note p{font-size:16px;color:var(--muted)}.practical-split{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:7vw;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin:0 var(--gutter);padding-left:0;padding-right:0}.practical-split h2{font-size:28px}.practical-split li{margin-bottom:12px}.place-opening,.guide-opening{max-width:1080px;padding:55px var(--gutter) 35px}.place-opening h1,.guide-opening h1{margin:20px 0 25px}.place-opening>p:last-child,.guide-opening>p:last-child{max-width:760px;font-size:21px;color:var(--muted)}.guide-opening>.eyebrow{margin-top:28px}.wide-photo{margin:0 var(--gutter)}.wide-photo img{width:100%;height:min(58vw,620px);object-fit:cover;border-radius:4px}.article-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:240px minmax(0,760px);gap:7vw;margin:65px var(--gutter);justify-content:center}.article-toc{align-self:start;position:sticky;top:25px;display:grid;gap:13px;font-size:13px}.article-toc p{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:5px}.article-toc a{text-decoration:none;color:var(--muted)}.article-toc a:hover{color:var(--green)}.prose{max-width:760px;font-size:18px;line-height:1.8}.prose h2{font-size:31px;margin:0 0 24px}.prose h3{font-size:22px;margin:25px 0 12px}.prose section{margin-bottom:50px}.prose li{margin-bottom:12px}.prose .note{padding:10px 0 15px}.prose .note p{font-size:18px;color:var(--ink)}.article-bottom{padding:35px var(--gutter) 70px;max-width:1100px;margin:auto}.sources{border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:25px;font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:35px}.sources h2{font-size:19px;margin-bottom:15px}.sources p{font-size:13px;line-height:1.6}.sources ul{padding-left:18px}.sources a{word-break:break-word}.takeaway{padding:27px;background:var(--wash);border-radius:4px}.takeaway h2{font-size:24px}.route-sequence{padding:0;list-style:none;max-width:850px}.route-sequence>li{display:flex;gap:25px;margin:30px 0 40px}.step-number{width:38px;height:38px;border-radius:50%;display:grid;place-items:center;background:var(--green);color:white;flex-shrink:0;font-size:14px}.route-sequence h3{margin:3px 0 18px}.route-sequence p{max-width:65ch}.route-sequence p:last-child{color:var(--muted);font-size:15px}.route-caution{max-width:850px;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding-top:20px}.route-caution h3{font-size:22px}.route-caution p{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}.main-search{display:flex;border-bottom:1px solid var(--ink);gap:15px;padding:15px 0 20px;margin-bottom:25px}.main-search input{border:0;background:none;font-size:23px;width:100%;min-width:0}.main-search button{background:none;border:0;color:var(--green);white-space:nowrap;cursor:pointer}.search-page{padding-top:0;min-height:400px}.search-page .card-grid{margin-top:35px}
.site-footer-new{padding:65px var(--gutter) 22px;background:#e8eee6;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.4fr 1fr;gap:45px;margin-top:25px}.footer-brand{font:600 20px Montserrat,Arial,sans-serif;color:var(--green);text-decoration:none}.footer-message h2{font-size:clamp(28px,3.5vw,50px);margin:25px 0}.footer-message p{font-size:15px;color:var(--muted)}.site-footer-new>nav{display:grid;align-content:start;gap:17px;padding-top:5px;font-size:14px}.site-footer-new>nav a{text-decoration:none}.site-footer-new>nav a:hover{text-decoration:underline}.footer-base{grid-column:1/-1;border-top:1px solid #c7d4c9;padding-top:20px;display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;font-size:11px;color:var(--muted)}
@media(min-width:1700px){main{max-width:1700px;margin:auto}}
@media(max-width:1100px){.site-nav{gap:22px}.site-nav>nav{gap:18px}.brand{font-size:18px}.brand small{font-size:11px}.atlas-layout{grid-template-columns:minmax(0,1fr) 260px}.atlas-detail{padding:18px}.city-opening{gap:35px}.city-opening figure img{height:460px}.card-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,minmax(0,1fr))}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:190px minmax(0,1fr);gap:40px}}
@media(max-width:760px){.site-nav{padding-top:17px;padding-bottom:17px}.brand{font-size:17px;gap:9px}.brand small{font-size:10px}.brand svg{width:30px;height:30px}.site-nav>nav:not(#mobile-nav){display:none}.search-link{margin-left:auto;font-size:0;gap:0}.search-link span{font-size:27px}.mobile-toggle{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:8px;background:none;border:0;font-size:12px;padding:4px;color:var(--green)}.page-intro{padding-top:36px;padding-bottom:20px}.page-intro h1{font-size:40px}.page-intro>p:last-child{font-size:17px}.eyebrow{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:15px}.atlas-section{margin-top:5px}.atlas-top{padding:18px;display:block}.atlas-top h2{font-size:23px}.map-actions{margin-top:14px}.atlas-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.atlas-canvas{height:400px}.atlas-detail{max-height:none;border-top:1px solid var(--line);padding:20px}.atlas-detail label{max-width:none}.map-preview-photo{height:160px;width:100%}.atlas-detail h3{font-size:27px}.map-related{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:8px 16px}.map-related a{font-size:12px}.map-related img{width:30px;height:30px}.map-footnote{display:block;padding:13px 18px}.map-footnote a{display:block;margin-top:8px}.section{padding-top:45px;padding-bottom:45px}.section-heading{display:block;margin-bottom:26px}.section-heading .text-link{display:inline-block;margin-top:18px}.card-grid{gap:35px 20px}.place-card h3{font-size:21px}.place-card p:last-child{font-size:15px}.card-photo{aspect-ratio:4/3}.landscape-story{min-height:530px}.landscape-story>div{padding:28px}.landscape-story h2{font-size:35px}.filter-bar{display:block}.filter-buttons{gap:5px}.filter-buttons button{font-size:12px;padding:8px 10px}.directory-search input{width:100%;margin-top:15px}.city-opening{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding-top:35px;gap:25px}.city-opening h1{font-size:46px}.city-opening figure img{height:360px}.opening-copy{font-size:17px}.notes-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:15px}.practical-split{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:20px}.place-opening,.guide-opening{padding-top:35px;padding-bottom:25px}.place-opening h1,.guide-opening h1{font-size:40px}.place-opening>p:last-child,.guide-opening>p:last-child{font-size:19px}.wide-photo img{height:72vw}.article-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:35px;margin-top:35px}.article-toc{position:static;display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:10px 18px;padding-bottom:20px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.article-toc p{width:100%}.article-toc a{font-size:12px}.prose{font-size:17px}.prose h2{font-size:27px}.prose .note p{font-size:17px}.site-footer-new{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px;padding-top:45px}.site-footer-new>nav{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:16px}.footer-base{display:grid;gap:8px}.main-search input{font-size:19px}.map-preview-photo{object-position:center 45%}}
@media(max-width:480px){.card-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.atlas-canvas{height:360px}.city-pin .pin-photo{width:38px;height:38px}.pin-label{top:40px}.page-intro h1{font-size:37px}.map-related{grid-template-columns:1fr}.city-opening figure img{height:310px}}
.city-cluster span{line-height:1.05}.city-cluster small{display:block;font-size:8px;line-height:1.4;font-weight:400}.page-intro:has(+.atlas-section[data-mode=country]){display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr;max-width:none;column-gap:45px;row-gap:8px;padding-top:27px;padding-bottom:22px}.page-intro:has(+.atlas-section[data-mode=country])>.eyebrow{grid-column:1/-1;margin:0}.page-intro:has(+.atlas-section[data-mode=country])>h1{font-size:clamp(38px,4.4vw,60px);margin:0}.page-intro:has(+.atlas-section[data-mode=country])>p:last-child{font-size:17px;margin:0;align-self:center}
@media(max-width:760px){.page-intro:has(+.atlas-section[data-mode=country]){grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:13px;padding-top:25px}.page-intro:has(+.atlas-section[data-mode=country])>h1{font-size:38px}.page-intro:has(+.atlas-section[data-mode=country])>p:last-child{font-size:16px}}
.map-display{position:relative;min-width:0}.basemap-picker select{padding:8px 10px;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:4px;background:var(--paper);font-size:12px;color:var(--ink)}.online-map-status{position:absolute;top:16px;left:55px;right:16px;z-index:700;max-width:400px;background:#fffffff2;box-shadow:0 2px 12px #0002;border-radius:4px;padding:12px 16px;font-size:13px;color:var(--ink);pointer-events:none}.online-map-status.map-error{pointer-events:auto}.online-map-status p{margin:0 0 10px}.online-map-status button{border:1px solid var(--green);background:var(--green);color:white;padding:7px 12px;border-radius:3px;font-size:12px;cursor:pointer}.leaflet-gl-layer{pointer-events:none}.map-display .maplibregl-canvas{outline:none}.atlas-canvas{background:#e8eef0}.leaflet-control-attribution{max-width:calc(100% - 55px);line-height:1.35!important}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*:before,*:after{animation:none!important;transition:none!important}}